Autumn/Winter 2023 CollectionThis season opens a new chapter in Bizuu's 12-year history. We are sorting out esthetic codes, reinterpreting them and looking for new contexts for them. It may not be an esthetic subversion, but it is a definite step forward. The new collection is accompanied by a photo shoot realized by photographer and editor-in-chief of Vogue Poland Ina Lekiewicz-Levy and stylist Ashlee Barrett-Bourmier in New Orleans.
The inspiration for the autumn-winter season is movement and change. The starting point for thinking about the collection was the 1992 film "Orlando," directed by Sally Potter. On its main character, played masterfully by Tilda Swinton, an envious queen casts a curse of eternal youth. What in the plot is more of a curse, in our interpretation becomes a wonderful way to seek new markets, avenues of development, ornaments and even better quality fabrics. Like the film's young man, the brand travels through decades and eras, drawing something new for itself from each. Elements of influences from historical clothing and contemporary design traditions can be seen in all new proposals.
Printed author's patterns - saturated or fuzzy, organic or sharp - traditionally stand out on fabrics. Most are flowers - pastel rosebuds, abstract dahlias or gladiolas. Some of them disappear into intricate pleats or rows of tiny ruffles. Alternatively, paisleys in shades of Scandinavian pink and copper are applied to asymmetrical skirts and blouses with long fontaz. Continuing the mood of the season before are black dresses made of a cotton-linen blend with a mercerie, stand-up collar and ruffles at the shoulders of long sleeves, or English lace. Silks and high-quality viscose, yarn blends with merino or mohair are scrolling through the fabrics. There is also no shortage of heavier fabrics like organic leather in a shade of milk chocolate. The skirt in this finish is accompanied by a short waisted jacket, which completes the new-look silhouette. It is punctuated by denim. In addition to denim jackets in three cut variants, the brand offers a model of palazzo pants with a stitched counterfold at the waistband. The same cut also comes in gray sheep's wool and in a print version imitating the old craftsman's block technique. A mini skirt with a cropped bomber cut in 100 percent cotton and a jacquard pullover with a porcelain-like pattern also stand out in the collection. Responsible alternatives of natural fabrics like modal, Ecovero and recycled polyesters are also increasingly chosen. Some of these have prestigious certifications like OEKO - TEX - 100.
The collection is bolstered by hair accessories - crinkled scrunchie or cute headbands. The look is completed with feisty cowboy boots or a duo of patterned socks with moccasins. The romantic nature of these accessories is broken up by sweatshirts and T-shirts, a workwear-inspired jumpsuit and graphic sweaters, one even with a feminist slogan. The mission to empower women forever remains important to the brand.
The premiere of the collection is accompanied by a photo shoot in three distinct styles matching the next drop: new vintage, new romantic and new western, each completely detached from a specific decade. Responsible for the eclectic styling for the first time is British stylist, consultant and creative director Ashlee Barrett-Bourmier, author of campaigns for brands such as Erdem, Isabel Marant, Preen by Thornton Bregazzi and photo shoots for magazines of the stature of Vogue and Numero. - I wanted to emphasize volumes, patterns and colors by matching them with backgrounds similar in nuance. I was looking for similarities, associations. At the same time, I tried hard to bring out in the collection what is most appreciated in fashion by women like me, who like to be both feminine and strong, to feel beautiful in what they wear. - Barrett-Bourmier says. She was accompanied on the set by Ina Lekiewicz, editor-in-chief of Vogue Poland magazine and a photographer who works in London on a daily basis. For the shooting location, the team chose a completely different setting than before. European natural landscapes were replaced by the urban landscape of the moody American South. The shooting was done in the State of Louisiana, including on the streets of New Orleans. Known for its atmospheric jazz clubs and crowded pubs, the photos captured the city in arresting detail. - One of the inspirations for the collection was the girlfriends of famous musicians. We felt that this melting pot of musical culture, which remembers many colorful anecdotes and would add character to the story. We wanted a unique, cinematic setting, with Creole architecture and candy colors that coordinate with the collection. - Lekiewicz says. On the other side of the lens, however, stood Sasha Knysh, a model known for her campaigns for brands such as Miu Miu and Marc Jacobs.